Q: I’ve got an interesting problem: When I tried to remove a burned-out bulb in a recessed floodlight fixture in our dining room, the glass separated from the metal threads, leaving nothing to grab onto while unscrewing. I had a similar problem in the bathroom and hired an electrician, who “fixed it” such that he had to replace the entire fixture. I’d rather not go through that again. I’ve read about tricks like using a potato jammed into the socket, but is that the best option?
A: You are most certainly not the first one with this issue. Proof is in the listings on Amazon: At least three tools are made for dealing with just this issue. (Amazon founder Jeff Bezos owns The Washington Post.) But before you go out and spend money on a single-purpose tool, try using one you may already own — or that will serve you in many ways if you do need to buy it.
When my in-laws faced this problem, one of their sons got the remnants of a bulb out using needle-nose pliers — also known as long-nose pliers — in an unconventional way. For most jobs, the point of needle-nose pliers is to grip tightly to whatever is held between the jaws when you squeeze the handles together. Sometimes, when a bulb breaks, the filament and a supporting glass rod remain. When that’s the case, you can use the pliers the regular way to grip the rod and unscrew the base. But when the filament is broken off, as it was at my in-laws’ house, you need to use the pliers in the opposite way: Stick the jaws into the socket and press the handles apart. This opens the jaws enough so the back edges press against what is left of the bulb base. Keep the handles pulled apart and twist out the metal. Once enough of the metal is out, you can use the pliers in the conventional way, which is more comfortable: Grip an edge of the metal and unscrew the base the rest of the way.
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Of course, before you try this, make sure power is turned off at the circuit breaker. It’s not enough to just turn off the switch on the wall; the ceiling fixture could be connected to a live wire, with just a loop running to the switch. Also wear goggles and gloves because your efforts to remove remnants of the bulb might cause shards of glass to fall. If carpet is underneath, cover it first so bits of glass don’t become embedded in the fibers.
Needle-nose pliers are typically five to eight inches long. While even the shortest ones open enough for the backs of the jaws to fit tightly against the inside of a standard bulb base, you will be able to apply greater pressure if you use pliers that are longer, at least 6½ inches. When a lightbulb breaks off, a glass lining is usually left inside the metal housing that screws into the light fixture. The glass is slippery, so having extra pressure helps the pliers grip better.
If you don’t already own needle-nose pliers, consider getting a pair designed for use by electricians. They have a standard needle-nose design, which is all you need for bulb removal, but in addition you get a wire cutter and one or more holes that can efficiently strip electrical wiring of its rubberlike coating. You might need these features for future jobs.
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If needle-nose pliers don’t work, you could try a few other tricks featured in a YouTube video you can find by doing a web search for “tips for removing a broken lightbulb from a socket.” One calls for cutting a potato in half across its width, pressing it over the socket, and twisting it counterclockwise. If you press hard enough and keep twisting, the potato will supposedly eventually jam into the bulb base and allow you to twist it out. It sounds intriguing but messy.
A higher-tech, tidier version of this approach is to use a wad of epoxy putty — the kind that comes with parts A and B extruded in the right proportion along the length of the product, such as Oatey fix-it stick ($7.68 for a four-ounce package at Lowe’s). Break off enough to fill the recess of the socket. Knead the putty thoroughly to mix the two parts, then jam the wad into the socket. When it stiffens but is not yet hard, poke the tip of a flat-head screwdriver a half-inch or so into the putty. Remove the screwdriver and wipe off the tip. Wait for the epoxy to fully harden, then reinsert the screwdriver and twist counterclockwise to extract the metal base of the bulb.
If you want to invest in a specialty tool, options include the mini lightbulb removal tool ($11.17 on Amazon), which is similar to needle-nose pliers, but the tips are cupped and sheathed in a rubberlike coating that helps the jaws grip better. As the product name implies, it’s for small bulbs such as those in candelabras, not regular-size ones. The Alden 9207P ease-out standard lightbulb extractor kit ($21.99 on Amazon) is for standard-size bulbs, not small ones. It’s a plastic version of pliers, with a clear shield below the jaws to catch bits of glass. And there is the Bayco LBC-800 broken bulb changer ($9.75 on Amazon). It’s basically a shaft with interchangeable rubberlike pads that adapt the tip to fit regular or small sockets. You stick the tip into the socket and twist. About 60 percent of the reviewers on Amazon said it worked well; critics complained that the small pad is too big for candelabra sockets or that the pads fell apart.
Have a problem in your home? Send questions to localliving@washpost.com. Put “How To” in the subject line, tell us where you live and try to include a photo.
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